So Much Fun to Have in SoHo

By Victor Block

Only in New York City would a neighborhood be known as SoHo, meaning south of Houston Street. Only in New York City would Houston be pronounced "how-stun." These eccentricities fade, however, in light of this Lower Manhattan district's colorful history, architectural splendor, superb shopping and dining opportunities, along with its past reputation as an enclave of art galleries.

SoHo shines as one of the Big Apple's most trendy and diverse neighborhoods. Upscale stores such as Tiffany and Dior overlook street vendors selling knockoff watches and jewelry, clothes, homemade art and all kinds of tchotchkes. Some 500 buildings comprise a 26-block historic district. Galleries provide hints of a time when the area was world-famous for its booming art scene.

During the Colonial period, what now is SoHo was farmland given to formerly enslaved people, making it the first free Black settlement on Manhattan Island. At the time of the American Revolution, numerous fortifications were located there.

Fast-forward to the mid-19th century, when an explosion of cast-iron buildings created the largest collection of such architecture in the world. The pliable metal was molded into intricate patterns that was used to enclose expansive high-ceilinged interiors with enlarged windows. When these spacious, well-lit lofts became vacant, they began to attract artists, and SoHo became the epicenter of New York City's thriving gallery scene.

While that drew to a close in the 1990s, some outstanding art spaces remain in the community. The Eden Gallery is an international company that represents artists from around the world. The Georges Burges Gallery displays works by both established and upcoming creators.

Art also decorates the outside of some buildings and other surfaces. One outdoor mural, applied in 1974 by Richard Haas, blended that medium with the architectural treasure-trove. It depicts a faux cast-iron facade echoing that which adorns its neighbors. The artificial architectural gem serves as an introduction to the SoHo Cast Iron Historical District, one of the most awe-inspiring attractions of the neighborhood. Other images embellish mailboxes, lampposts and many other flat surfaces scattered throughout the neighborhood.

Adding to the appeal of the setting are streets that are paved with Belgian Block. These are decorative rectangular stones that in the past were widely used in the country for which they're named because they provided a better grip for horses' hooves than a smooth surface.

Those architectural riches combined with SoHo's location, its former reputation as a haven for artists and, more recently, as a shopping mecca make it a must-visit enclave for my future trips to New York City.

When I return, I'll be certain to dine again at Fanelli's Cafe, a nondescript establishment with a storied history. The site it occupies has been documented back to 1644, and food and drink have been served there since 1847. Over time the building also operated as a grocery store, saloon and, during the Prohibition years, a speakeasy.

It was a gathering place for members of the artist community and for patrons ranging from boxing champion Rocky Graziano to singer-songwriter Bob Dylan. I enjoyed watching vintage silent movies playing on the TV set and chatting with the bartender, who augmented generous pours with colorful tidbits about the establishment's interesting past.

Another must-munch location for those with a sweet tooth is the Dominique Ansel Bakery. In addition to the owner-chef's innovations like the cookie shot and frozen s'mores, people often line up well before the shop opens to make sure they can get the lusted-after Cronut. So prized is that cross between a croissant and doughnut that customers are limited to purchasing two of the taste-tempting treats.

Travelers to SoHo who bring children will find that the Museum of Ice Cream is likely to be a high point for them. It occupies a building that dates back to the 1860s, and today's visitors can jump into a pool filled with colorful sprinkles, plummet down a three-story slide and indulge in unlimited ice cream treats.

Youngsters will also enjoy the quaintly named Sloomoo Institute, an interactive experiential space devoted to -- slime. Those willing to do so can sink their hands into dozens of scented goos, design their own goop and take a slime shower.

Film buffs can check out a number of SoHo locations where movies and TV shows have been shot. One is the cast-iron apartment building that served as home to Molly (Demi Moore) in the motion picture "Ghost." Not far away is the street where Patrick Swayze, playing Sam Wheat, took a bullet during a mugging gone wrong and died, only to return as an apparition that saves Molly's life.

If film locations or all-you-can-eat ice cream aren't reasons enough to visit New York's SoHo district, perhaps art and architecture will be. Add a colorful history, shoppers' paradise and a discerning diners' desired destinations, and if you haven't stopped by during past trips to the city -- why not?

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WHEN YOU GO

www.nyctourism.com

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Victor Block is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.