America's Biggest Little Italy Is in San Diego

By Athena Lucero

Of the umpteen Little Italies scattered throughout the United States, San Diego's vibrant 48-square-block Italian neighborhood is the biggest in the nation. Famous for its celebrated dining scene and year-round Little Italy Merkato Farmers Market, it's surrounded by San Diego Bay, San Diego International Airport, Little Italy Trolley rail station, iconic Balboa Park, downtown's skyline -- and pulsates as the heart of the city.

A weekend getaway here was immersion into renowned Italian gastronomy and ambience that turned into an extraordinary crash course on the birth of Little Italy when Italian fishermen from Genoa and Sicily immigrated to San Diego in the early 1900s so they could continue their fishing traditions. Those who didn't fish started businesses to process and market seafood while others opened restaurants. San Diego became the "Tuna Capital of the World."

Besides San Diego, other Little Italies sprouted around the country during various periods of Italian immigration. From New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania and New England on the East Coast to Los Angeles and San Francisco in the West, urban non-Italian cities replicate the homeland: piazzas for outdoor gatherings, restaurants, pizzerias, bakeries, grocery stores and churches. In San Diego, Our Lady of the Rosary Catholic Church was built in 1925 and is famous for frescoes by Venetian painter Fausto Tasca.

This Little Italy has multiple piazzas and is one of the oldest continuous neighborhood business districts in San Diego. But the 1970s saw the beginning of the end of the tuna industry due to a rising economy, competition and strict environmental regulations -- preceded in 1964 with construction of Interstate 5 that sliced through tight-knit Little Italy community, reducing it by more than a third and forcing many of its 6,000 residents to move. Despite the challenges, this resilient community bounced back.

The formation of the Little Italy Association of San Diego in the early 1990s ignited the rebirth of beloved Little Italy. Fisheries and canneries were no longer, but multigenerational Italian families were still running restaurants and other businesses founded by their ancestors. A new skyline began taking shape with contemporary residential housing as artists, designers and small businesses moved in.

Our visit acquainted my husband and me with a friendly, walkable destination where locals and visitors from around the country and abroad coexist. The once all-Italian neighborhood is today a multiethnic demographic from the old country, Italian Americans and non-Italians. A dog-friendly culture here adds to the mix.

Amici Park is a model multiuse project between the Little Italy Association and the San Diego Unified School District. Beautifully maintained Little Italy Dog Park (designed with non-toxic K9Grass) doubles as a playing field for students of Washington Elementary during school hours, bocce ball courts welcome all levels of players, and the small-scale Amici Park Amphitheater invites sitting and relaxing by day; by night it comes alive with events like the Summer Film Festival and Italian movies on Saturdays. AMICIBAR caffe, serving espressos and tea drinks, completes its mission to build culture and community.

Historic piazzas include Piazza Basilone, which honors veterans of wars during the 20th century, and Piazza Pescatore's bronze statues and tiled mosaics that pay homage to the tuna industry. The 10,000-square-foot Piazza Della Famiglia, Little Italy's main square, is dedicated to families "past, present and future."

The piazza, reminiscent of a cobbled European square with cafes, a stunning fountain, stringed lighting and a view of San Diego Bay, inspires rest - such as taking a coffee break, catching a meal or enjoying free entertainment under the stars.

Piazza Della Famiglia is also home to Little Italy's famous year-round Saturday Merkato Farmers Market that draws 25,000 visitors each week. It is six blocks long with 190 vendors offering fresh produce, artisan breads, olive oils and more as well as clothing and crafts. The Wednesday farmers market has 100 vendors.

"This is a unique neighborhood," said market operator Brijet Myers at Little Italy Merkato Farmers Market. "It's an outdoor grocery store and very down to earth. We help the farmers sell what they grow ... and the people are dedicated to the farmers."

Myers' mother, Catt Fields-White, founded the farmers market in 2008 when the area was still industrial. Today she is a leader and consultant in the international world of farmers markets.

Little Italy's acclaimed dining on India Street lived up to its reputation. On a festive Friday night, restaurants and parklets filled with diners -- and aproned servers moving deftly across crowded sidewalks -- transported me to the foodie streets and immigrant story of historic East London.

The plethora of authentic Italian and non-Italian offerings was pleasantly dizzying, so we let our eyes and noses lead the way -- to Davanti Enoteca, where we discovered splendid specialties made for sharing: ultra-thin and addicting Ligurian focaccia (Liguria is the Italian birthplace of the flatbread) with cow's milk cheese accompanied with honeycomb, and creamy mascarpone polenta spread on a board topped with a glorious ragu.

Another culinary treasure is Kettner Boulevard, dubbed Top Chef Alley, where luminary chefs have made San Diego home to showcasing gastronomic creations at their restaurants.

Italian tradition is kept alive thanks to the Little Italy Festa project's year-round festivals and events. On Sunday we had just finished lunch on India Street when the sounds of a marching band and a voice through a loudspeaker wafted through the restaurant. We paid the bill and hustled outside to see a religious procession passing by -- conjuring scenes straight from "The Godfather."

"There is still the Italian family charm from the old days," Myers said. "I see them often enjoying coffee on the sidewalks. There's a rich history here, for sure."

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WHEN YOU GO

Little Italy Association San Diego: www.littleitalysd.com

Where I stayed: Urban Boutique Hotel, a European-style hotel steps from Piazza Della Famiglia: www.urbanboutiquehotel.com

Tips for parking in Little Italy: www.littleitalysd.com/feature/where-to-park-in-san-diegos-little-italy-your-parking-guide

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Athena Lucero is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.