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Waffles aren't just for breakfast anymore

Gretchen McKay, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette on

Published in Variety Menu

Fall is a great time to be thinking about comfort food for breakfast.

Once the leaves turn shades of red and gold, a quick cup of coffee or cold bowl of cereal just doesn't cut it. While a chill in the air makes us crave carbs, mornings are darker longer because the sun's path across the sky becomes lower. You need something warm and cozy to get yourself out of bed, right?

How does a plate of homemade waffles sound? Pretty good, I bet, no matter what age the eater — or preference for topping.

Crispy on the outside and wonderfully tender on the inside, waffles have satisfied hungry bellies since the days of the ancient Greeks, when Athenians cooked flat cakes called obelios between two metal plates.

Waffles arrived on American shores thanks to the Netherlands, a country so captivated by the crispy treat that it established a waffle makers' guild back in the 13th century.

Some of the pilgrims who made the voyage across the Atlantic in 1620 lived in Holland before boarding the Mayflower, and they brought Dutch "wafles" with them. In 1789, Thomas Jefferson also became a fan, bringing the first long-handled, double-plated waffle iron to America after a trip to France.

Back in the day, users held the irons over an open fire or on the hearth to cook the waffles to perfection. It was a dangerous proposition that often ended up with the waffles — or cook — getting scorched. Then Cornelius Swartwout invented a stove-top version of the waffle iron in 1869 that was easy to flip — and less likely to burn the hand of the cook.

After General Electric sold the first electric waffle iron in 1918, this crispy, golden alternative to pancakes really took off, not just as a breakfast food, but also as a sweet or savory dish for lunch and dinner.

How popular are waffles? Well, Waffle House sells approximately 124 million a year at its 2,000-plus restaurants in 25 states — or some 2 billion waffles since its founding in Georgia in 1955.

We think we know why.

Thanks to their extra-deep pockets and crunchy exterior, waffles can hold toppings that would weigh down and possibly smother a more delicate pancake. They're also a little easier to make, as most waffle makers have a light that turns green to tell you when they're done.

You can keep them warm in the oven until everyone is served, and they crunch up beautifully in a toaster the next morning if you've got leftovers.

With that in mind, we have three waffle recipes you'll want to try this fall: a sweet apple-topped waffle for breakfast, a crunchy cornmeal waffle topped with cheesy, homemade chili con queso for brunch (or maybe a tailgate, if you break them up for dipping) and for dinner or a late-night snack, a waffle topped with buttermilk-brined fried chicken with a drizzle of hot honey.

Buttermilk in the batter gives all three a richer, denser texture. I made them in a Belgian waffle maker, which has larger, thicker and deeper grooves than a regular waffle maker.

Some Belgian waffle batter recipes call for separating the eggs into yolks and whites to create a lighter, fluffier texture, but I beat them together to save time (and effort). They're probably not as fluffy as a result, but they're still pretty tasty.

Some other tips for making the crispiest waffles:

—Patience, patience! Wait for the iron to get fully hot before adding batter — it should preheat for at least 10 minutes — and be sure to allow the batter to rest for at least 15 minutes before using to allow the flour to absorb moisture and the baking soda to activate.

—Don't overmix, or the waffles will be tough and/or chewy.

—Keep the waffle iron closed until just before adding fat and batter.

—Generously slather or spray vegetable oil on the irons, paying special attention to the top one. This will allow for easy release.

—Making a bunch? Keep waffles warm until serving in a preheated 250-degree oven on a wire rack inside a baking sheet. Don't stack waffles on top of each other — they'll get soggy.

—To store in the freezer: Let waffles cool completely, then arrange on a baking sheet and allow to freeze hard before placing in a resealable plastic bag. And if you put a piece of parchment paper or waxed paper between them, they'll separate easier.

Buttermilk Waffles

PG tested

This basic buttermilk waffle recipe is perfect for both sweet and savory toppings. It makes about 10 waffles.

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons white sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups low-fat buttermilk

1/3 cup melted butter

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Whisk flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt together in a bowl until evenly combined.

Whisk buttermilk and melted butter together in a separate bowl; whisk in eggs.

Stir buttermilk mixture into flour mixture until just combined and batter is slightly lumpy; stir in vanilla extract.

Let rest for at least 15 minutes, or even overnight. (This allows the flour to absorb moisture and the baking soda to activate.)

Preheat a waffle iron according to manufacturer's instructions.

To cook each waffle, pour enough batter into the preheated waffle iron to reach 1/2 inch from the edge. Cook according to manufacturer's instructions.

To keep them warm, preheat the oven to about 250 degrees. Place cooked waffles on a wire rack on top of a baking sheet, and keep them in the oven as you make the whole batch.

Makes 10 waffles.

— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette

Cornmeal Waffles with Chili con Queso

PG tested

These crunchy (and filling) waffles are made with cornmeal. They are served with a super-simple and slightly spicy chili con queso dip. Either ladle the dip on top or separate the waffles into sections and dunk.

1 3/4 cups buttermilk

2 large eggs

5 tablespoons, melted

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 cup yellow cornmeal

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon table salt

For chili con queso

1 package cream cheese

1/2 cup chipotle salsa

1 8-ounce can diced, fire-roasted tomatoes

1 cup cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese

1 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon cumin

Dash of cayenne pepper

 

Salt, to taste

Candied jalapeño peppers, for garnish, to taste

Make waffle batter: In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk together buttermilk, eggs and melted butter or oil.

In a separate bowl, blend together flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Add to bowl with wet ingredients and stir just to combine.

Let batter sit for 10 minutes to allow cornmeal to soften.

While batter is resting, make queso. In medium saucepan, combine cream cheese, salsa, tomatoes, shredded cheddar, chili powder, cumin and a dash of cayenne pepper.

Stir to combine and cook over low heat until cheese melts, stirring constantly. When cheese is melted, add salt to taste and keep warm while you make the waffles.

Ladle enough batter onto a hot waffle iron to cover nearly to the sides, spreading with a rubber spatula. (My waffle iron took about 1 cup.) Cook until steam stops seeping from the iron.

Serve waffles with a lot or a little queso on top. If desired, sprinkle with chopped cilantro and candied jalapeño peppers.

Serves 6-8.

— adapted from kingarthurbaking.com

Waffles with Chicken and Hot Honey

PG tested

For hot honey

1 cup honey

2 tablespoons chili flakes, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste (optional)

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

For chicken

1 pound chicken tenders

1 cup buttermilk

Dash of hot sauce

Vegetable oil for frying

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

For serving

1 buttermilk waffle recipe

Prepare hot honey: In a small saucepan, combine honey and chili flakes. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then reduce heat to low and simmer for 5-10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Once the mixture is infused with the chili flakes, remove from the heat and let cool for a few minutes.

Stir in the cayenne pepper and apple cider vinegar.

Pour hot honey through a fine mesh strainer to remove chili flakes, if desired. Store in a clean jar or bottle and keep at room temperature.

Prepare chicken: Place tenders in a large bowl with the buttermilk and hot sauce. Mix, making sure chicken is covered with brine.

Cover with plastic wrap, place in refrigerator and allow to marinate for at least 2 hours, or up to overnight. When ready to cook, drain and throw away marinade.

In a Dutch oven pot or deep saucepan, heat 1 inch of vegetable oil. Allow oil to reach 350 degrees.

Place flour, garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, black pepper and salt in a large, shallow bowl.

Dip chicken tenders into flour mixture and thoroughly coat, then let rest on a plate for 5 minutes before frying.

Fry chicken in hot oil until golden brown, crispy and cooked through completely, about 4-5 minutes.

Let chicken cool slightly on a baking sheet fitted with a wire rack, then serve on top of waffles, drizzled with hot honey.

Serves 6.

— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette

Breakfast Waffles with Cinnamon Apples

PG tested

Apples are in season right now, and when paired with cinnamon, they're the perfect topping for a sweet fall waffle dish. Whipped cream is optional.

2 tart apples

2 tablespoons water

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon, plus a pinch more for garnish

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

1/4 cup maple syrup

Whipped cream, for garnish, optional

1 buttermilk waffle recipe

Wash, peel and dice apples.

Place diced apples on the stove top in a sauce pan on a medium heat. Add water, butter, cinnamon and nutmeg. Bring to a low simmer for 3 minutes, stirring often.

Add maple syrup and stir. Remove from heat.

Serve on top of waffles with a dollop of whipped cream, if desired.

Makes about 2 cups.

Serves 6-8.

— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette


©2024 PG Publishing Co. Visit at post-gazette.com. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.

 

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