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Fail-safes and fast fixes for last-minute Thanksgiving dinner crises

Gretchen McKay, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette on

Published in Entertaining

Most of us would agree it's fun to get the gang back together during the holidays. Yet, cooking for a crowd can prove stressful for many home cooks, especially when there's an expectation the dinner table will hold a smorgasbord of your loved ones' favorite dishes.

The pressure can really build when an invited guest or relative you'll be celebrating with announces a dietary restriction or preference you weren't aware of, you forget you're on the hook for one of the courses or your kitchen doesn't lend itself to the epic, eat-as-much-as-you-can family feast known as Thanksgiving dinner.

Try not to freak out! If the last few years have taught us anything, it's that even the best-laid plans sometimes go wrong and we have to pivot.

Below, we offer five great recipes to help you solve some common, last-minute Thanksgiving dinner challenges, or simply round out your holiday table. Happy Turkey Day!

Crisis: You didn't know your daughter's boyfriend doesn't eat meat.

Solution: A make-ahead vegetarian main dish

Creamy Swiss Chard Gratin with Crispy Gnocchi

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Got a guest who doesn't eat turkey? This hearty vegetarian main dish combines pan-fried gnocchi with Swiss chard and onion in an ultra-luxurious cheese sauce. I used rainbow chard (a mix of white-stemmed Swiss chard, red chard, and golden chard) and substituted Swiss cheese for Gruyére.

1 pound Swiss chard (about 2 bunches)

1/2 cup unsalted butter, divided

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided

2 (12-ounce) packages refrigerated potato gnocchi (such as Giovanni Rana Skillet Gnocchi), divided

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

3/4 teaspoon black pepper, divided

1 large onion, thinly sliced (about 2 1/2 cups)

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

3 1/4 cups whole milk

2 ounces Swiss cheese, shredded (about 1/2 cup)

2 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated (about 1/2 cup)

1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 clove minced garlic

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Preheat oven to 375 degrees, rack 10 inches from heat.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Trim ends of chard, then slice stems and leaves into 1-inch thick strips. Add to boiling water; cook, stirring often, until leaves are wilted and stems are crisp-tender, 1-2 minutes. Drain well, let cool and gently squeeze over sink to remove any excess liquid. Set aside.

Wipe pot clean. Add 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon oil; cook over medium-high heat until butter melts.

Add 1 package of gnocchi; cook, turning occasionally, until golden brown and crisp, 5-7 minutes. Transfer to a baking sheet. Repeat process with 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon oil and remaining gnocchi. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Set aside.

Add remaining 2 tablespoons butter and remaining 2 tablespoons oil to pot; cook over medium heat until butter melts.

Add onion and season with 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened and translucent, about 8 minutes.

Sprinkle onion mixture with flour; cook over medium, stirring constantly, 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in milk until smooth. Bring just to a simmer over medium-high heat, whisking occasionally.

Reduce heat to low. Gently simmer, whisking often, until mixture is thickened, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

Stir in cheeses, mustard, garlic, red pepper and nutmeg. Fold in gnocchi and chard. Season with remaining 3/4 teaspoon salt and remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Spread mixture evenly into an 11- by- 7-inch broiler-safe baking dish.

Bake in preheated oven until bubbling around edges, 20-25 minutes. Increase oven temperature to broil. Broil gratin until browned in spots, about 4 minutes. Remove from oven; let cool 5 minutes.

Serves 10.

— adapted from foodandwine.com

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Crisis: I don't know how to make gravy!

Solution: A make-ahead turkey gravy

Make-Ahead Turkey Gravy

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If there's a universal fear on Thanksgiving, it's having to make gravy on the spot with the drippings. This rich and silky make-ahead recipe made with turkey thighs takes the pressure off while offering the same flavors as a roast turkey.

For a gluten-free version, mix 2 tablespoons cornstarch with 1/2 cup broth and slowly whisk into the remaining simmering broth, cooking until thickened.

6 turkey thighs, trimmed, or 9 wings, separated at the joints

Reserved turkey giblets and neck, optional

2 medium carrots, chopped coarse

2 medium celery ribs, chopped coarse

2 medium onions, chopped coarse

1 head garlic, halved

Vegetable oil spray

10 cups chicken broth, plus extra as needed

2 cups dry white wine

12 sprigs fresh thyme

Unsalted butter, as needed

1 cup all-purpose flour

Defatted turkey drippings, optional

Salt and pepper

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. In a large roasting pan, toss in thighs, giblets (if using), carrots, celery, onions and garlic and spray with vegetable oil spray. Roast, stirring occasionally, until well browned, 1 1/2 -1 3/4 hours.

Transfer contents of roasting pan to Dutch oven. Add broth, wine and thyme sprigs, and bring to boil, skimming as needed.

Reduce to gentle simmer and cook until broth is brown and flavorful and measures about 8 cups, about 1 1/2 hours. Strain broth through a fine-mesh strainer into a large container, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Reserve meat for another use, and discard solids.

Let strained turkey broth settle (if necessary), then spoon off and reserve 1/2 cup of fat that has risen to top (add butter as needed if short on turkey fat). Heat fat in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until bubbling. Whisk in flour and cook, whisking constantly, until well browned, 3- 7 minutes.

Slowly whisk in chicken broth and bring to boil. Reduce to simmer and cook until gravy is very thick, 10-15 minutes. Add defatted drippings, if using, to taste, then season with salt and pepper to taste. Let cool; cover and chill.

Gravy can be made 2 days ahead. Reheat over low heat, and serve.

Makes about 2 quarts.

— Cook's Country magazine

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Crisis: You ran out of room in your oven for all the sides

 

Solution: Crockpot stuffing

Crockpot Thanksgiving Stuffing

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This Crockpot stuffing recipe will free up some valuable real estate in your oven on Thanksgiving, and can easily be jazzed up with added ingredients like raisins and browned sausage.

It won't be as crispy-crunchy as stuffing made in the oven — the steam that collects on the lid while cooking keeps it super moist — but you can always spread it onto a cookie sheet and throw it into the oven for a few minutes, after the turkey and other sides come out, to crisp it up.

8 tablespoons butter, plus more for greasing Crockpot

1 cup chopped onion

1 cup chopped celery

1 cup chopped green apple

10 cups dry bread cubes

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

2 teaspoons poultry seasoning

1 tablespoon fresh chopped thyme and/or rosemary

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

4 cups chicken broth, or as needed

1 large egg, beaten

Grease Crockpot insert thoroughly with butter.

Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add onion, celery and apples and cook until slightly softened, 5-8 minutes.

Place bread cubes in a very large mixing bowl. Spoon cooked vegetables over bread cubes. Season with salt, pepper, poultry seasoning, thyme and rosemary. Add parsley, toss to combine, then pour in enough broth to moisten. Mix in beaten egg, then transfer mixture to a slow cooker.

Cover and cook on high for 45 minutes, then reduce heat to low and cook for 4-8 hours.

— Gretchen McKay

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Crisis: You didn't know you were responsible for a side dish.

Solution: A super easy corn pudding

Corn Pudding

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Everybody should have an easy dish like this in their back pocket for holiday dinners. Make it once, and it will quickly become a family favorite.

As light as it is fluffy, this corn pudding is an all-star for three reasons: It couldn't be easier to throw together, you can make it in advance and it doesn't require any fancy ingredients or cooking vessels. Any casserole dish (or two, if you split the recipe in half) will do.

1/4 cup sugar

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

6 large eggs

2 cups whipping cream

1/2 cup butter, melted

2 1-pound bags frozen white corn, thawed

Combine sugar, flour, baking powder and salt in a small bowl.

Whisk together eggs, whipping cream and butter in another large bowl. Gradually add sugar mixture, whisking until smooth; stir in corn. Pour mixture into a buttered casserole dish.

Bake at 350 degrees for 40-50 minutes, or until pudding is set. (It should be golden brown on the edges but still slightly jiggly in the center. A knife inserted in the center should come out clean.) Let stand 5 minutes before serving.

Serves 8.

— adapted from SouthernLiving.com

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Crisis: You've been asked to bring a last-minute dessert.

Solution: A super easy cranberry slump

Cranberry Slump

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A slump is a (super-easy) New England take on cobbler. While there's dough, no rolling is required and the cranberry topping also is fuss-free. I made it in a large cast-iron skillet, but you could also can bake the slump in individual ramekins. An added plus: It travels well and can be served at room temperature.

About 6 cups cranberries, rinsed and drained

1 1/2 cups sugar, divided

1 tablespoon grated orange zest

1 cup flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

Pinch of salt

1 stick cold butter, plus more for greasing

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Heat oven to 375 degrees.

Combine cranberries with 1/2 cup sugar, 1/2 cup water and orange zest in an ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then remove from heat.

Put flour, baking powder, salt and remaining cup sugar in a food processor and pulse once or twice. Cut the butter into 1/4 -inch cubes then add it to the mixture and pulse for a few seconds until it's just combined; you should still see bits of butter.

Use a fork to gently mix in the eggs and vanilla, and don't worry about the dough being perfectly smooth.

Drop dough in heaping tablespoons, spaced as evenly as you can, over the berry mixture and transfer the skillet to the oven. Bake for 15 minutes, then cover loosely with aluminum foil to allow the dough to steam. Bake for another 10 minutes or so, until the berries are bubbling.

Serve hot, warm or at room temperature.

Serves 6-8.

— "How to Bake Everything: Simple Recipes for the Best Baking" by Mark Bittman (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt; $35)


 

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