First off, sweet potatoes are not yams. Yams hail from Africa, are not sweet or very nutritious. Our growers created this confusion to differentiate the drier, firmer sweet potatoes from the moister varieties they promote during the holidays.

Second, sweet potatoes are for more than Thanksgiving. These members of the Morning Glory family are perfect winter foods, a key ingredient in comforting curries, soups and stews. But I like them best when fried — not in bubbling grease, but in the oven.

It's been a great year for local sweet potatoes. In our farmers markets and co-ops you'll find a wide variety — tiny, skinny, plump, brown, orange, and pale — in a range of flavors and textures. Take the Murasaki variety, sometimes labeled Japanese. Characterized by its deep purple skin, it has pale golden flesh that's dry and fluffy with a lovely chestnut-like taste. The more familiar coppery skinned Beauregard and Jewel are orange-fleshed, moist and sweet.

Though sweet potatoes look tough, they're best handled with care. They bruise easily and should be enjoyed within a week or so. Store them in a basket in a cool, dry place; do not refrigerate, and do not scrub until you're ready to cook. Most of the nutrients are in the skin, so there's no need to peel. The best sweet potatoes are grown in chemical-free organic soil.

The key to crisp, crunchy fries is to preheat the baking sheet in a very hot oven; toss the potatoes onto the hot pan, and the magic happens They will sear to develop a crust while their natural sugars caramelize. Finger singeing and hard to resist, few make it from the pan to the table. It's best to double the batch.

Hot and Spicy Sweet Potato Fries with Cilantro Lemon Dipping Sauce

Serves about 4.

To ensure crisp, sweet, tender fries, preheat the sheet pan in a hot oven for at least 10 minutes. These are terrific just sprinkled with coarse salt and pepper, but seasoning with smoked paprika and a little chile brings them to the next level. Serve with a side of lemon, garlic, cilantro yogurt sauce for dipping. From Beth Dooley.

For the fries:

• 2 lb. sweet potatoes

• 2 to 3 tbsp. olive oil

• 1 tsp. paprika

• 1/8 tsp. ground chili powder, or more to taste

• Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the Cilantro-Lemon Dipping Sauce:

• 3/4 c. whole milk Greek-style yogurt

• 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

• 1 clove garlic, minced

• 2 tbsp. finely chopped cilantro, plus more for garnish

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions

To prepare the fries: Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and preheat in a 450-degree oven for at least 10 minutes.

Cut the sweet potatoes into sticks about 1/4 by 1/2 inch wide and 3 inches long; toss with the oil.

In a medium bowl, mix together the paprika, chili powder, salt and pepper. Toss the sweet potatoes into the spices to coat. Carefully spread the potatoes out on the hot baking sheets, making sure they don't touch.

Roast until crisp and brown on the bottom, about 10 minutes, then flip and cook until the other side is crisp, about 10 more minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the dipping sauce.

To prepare the dipping sauce: In a medium bowl, put yogurt, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, cilantro, salt and pepper; whisk until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Serve fries with dipping sauce.