A walk through Ghent
Now let's leave the church and walk north until we hit the main street of medieval Ghent -- Hoogpoort. We're headed for the castle at the end of this street -- the Castle of the Counts.
Built in 1180, this rough-stone fortress was designed not to protect the people of Ghent, but to intimidate the city's independence-minded citizens. You get a real feel for the medieval world as you twist through its towers and ramble over its ramparts. It has all the parts of a typical castle: courtyard and keep, throne room, chapel, 18-foot-deep dungeon, and high walls. Inside, there are displays of authentic swords and suits of armor, along with a reconstructed guillotine that was last used in 1861.
Our walk is complete. Ghent is the kind of town that you can visit for a few hours, and find yourself wishing you had a few days. While not "undiscovered," it is certainly underrated. Like sampling a flavorful praline in a Belgian chocolate shop, that first enticing taste just leaves you wanting more. Go ahead, it's OK -- buy a whole box.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: Hotel Harmony is a family-run boutique hotel with 40 contemporary chic rooms (splurge, www.hotel-harmony.be). Erasmus Hotel offers 12 well-maintained rooms in a creaky 400-year-old building (moderate, www.erasmushotel.be).
EATING: De Acht Zaligheden ("The Eight Beatitudes") serves regional dishes with innovative presentation (Oudburg 4, tel. 329-224-3197). Balls and Glory is a small Belgian chain that specializes in gigantic meatballs (Jakobijnenstraat 6, mobile 0486-678-776).
GETTING AROUND: Ghent's historic core appealingly compact; you can walk from one end to the other in about 15 minutes.
TOURIST INFORMATION: www.visitgent.be.
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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)
(c)2016 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.