History-Heavy Baltimore Has Much More

If any city gives meaning to the word "eclectic," it is Baltimore, Maryland. Are you interested in American history? Do you enjoy visiting museums? Does a wonderful waterfront setting have appeal? Baltimore has you covered.

Over the years, it has been known by a variety of nicknames, all of which are applicable. They include the Monumental City, referring to the fact that Baltimore is home to more monuments and public statues per capita than any other municipality in the nation. Clipper Town, for the Revolutionary War and War of 1812 ships that are anchored in its harbor. Crab Town because more than one-third of the country's blue crabs come from the nearby Chesapeake Bay, and Marylanders have perfected the art of preparing and eating the ungainly looking but tasty crustaceans.

During my recent visit to Baltimore, I delighted in much that the city has to offer. I was steeped in the history, which is around every corner. Surprised by the wide choice of places to see and things to do. Intrigued at the contradictory images of "Bawlmer," as many locals call it, as a working-class town closely aligned with its nautical past, a setting replete with outstanding museums and the backdrop for some 200 neighborhoods, each with its own distinct personality and experiences.

In many ways, the Inner Harbor is the heart of Baltimore, and it ranks as Maryland's No. 1 tourist destination. Shipbuilding yards and steel mills that once occupied the space have been replaced by world-class art and other collections, hotels, restaurants and, at times, throngs of tourists.

It's apt that the National Aquarium in Baltimore, which is widely considered to be the best in the country, is perched at the edge of the harbor. That seven-story structure displays some 20,000 creatures, a rainforest environment, multistory shark tank and re-created Pacific reef.

Adjacent to the building I checked out an often-overlooked little gem, a reproduced mini-salt marsh that replicates the habitat that existed there hundreds of years ago. Signs explain that the miniature wetland is inhabited by grass shrimp, mud crabs and small fish.

The several historic ships that share the harbor invite visitors to come aboard. The USS Constellation, known as a sloop-of-war, is the last sail-only warship built by the U.S. Navy in 1854. Lightship 116 began service in 1930, patrolling and guiding maritime traffic at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay. U.S Coast Guard Cutter 37 was built in the mid-1930s and designed for law-enforcement missions, search and rescue, and maritime patrol.

Rounding out the assortment is the Seven Foot Knoll Lighthouse. Built in 1856, it is one of the oldest Chesapeake Bay lighthouses still in existence. It contains an extensive exhibit of artifacts from and information about lighthouses around the region.

The displays in Baltimore's museums extend well beyond seafaring themes. The Star-Spangled Banner Flag House recalls the story of Mary Pickersgill's stitching of the banner that flew over Fort McHenry during the War of 1812. The Civil War Museum, located in a former train terminal that opened in 1850, explores that station's role in the war between the states, including the story of a secret escape by President Lincoln to thwart an assassination attempt.

The Immigration Museum displays artifacts, letters and other material related to people who came to the United States from around the world in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The American Indian Center celebrates those who were here long before then.

Baltimore's neighborhoods vie with its museums in both diversity and interest. Strolling through several of these enclaves introduced me to below-the-radar facets of the city's past. I walked along streets made of cobblestones that served as ballast on ships from Europe that arrived in the 1800s. I passed the marble steps in front of narrow row houses that became status symbols for Baltimoreans in the early 1900s. I evoked the time when the Fells Point neighborhood, today a gentrified mix of 18th-century homes and trendy restaurants and bars, was the center of the city's shipbuilding industry.

Checking out Druid Hill Park, I thought back to when the Susquehannock Native Americans ceded that land to Lord Baltimore, in 1652. Today it contains the Maryland Zoo and the Howard P. Rawlings Conservatory and Botanic Gardens, which opened in 1888.

I ended my exploration at the Lexington Market, which, I soon learned, is much more than a place to buy fruits and vegetables. That iconic Crab Town landmark claims to be the oldest and largest continually operating public market in the nation. The establishment traces its birth back to 1782, when an informal meeting place for the exchange of goods was established. Over time, it evolved into a community gathering space and buzzy bazaar whose merchants and customers reflect Baltimore's diversity.

The melange of eateries, shops and miscellaneous offerings leaves little to the imagination. I spotted a bakery adjacent to a shoe-repair stand. At Buffalo Bill's Fresh Quality Meats, I saw parts of animals that I could not identify on display. The Sausage Master stand offers hot dogs prepared in more ways than I could have imagined.

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Adding to the colorful conglomeration are unexpected tidbits such as a small kiosk operating under the name Waist Beads and Spiritual Needs and a sign at a fresh seafood raw bar which reads: "Forget Viagra, eat oysters."

The something-for-everyone offerings at the Lexington Market are repeated time and again throughout Baltimore. I left the city recalling a sign I once saw at a flea market that read, "If we don't have it, you don't need it." Baltimore offers attractions enough to meet most everyone's expectations.

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WHEN YOU GO

For more information: baltimore.org.

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Victor Block is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.