ArcaMax

By Victor Block

One morning I take a sightseeing drive through a neighborhood of palatial mansions with three- and four-car garages that house Cadillacs, Mercedes and other top-of-the-line automobiles. That afternoon I enjoy a thrilling airboat ride through mangrove swamps, where I spot alligators and an aviary-worth variety of birds, followed by time working on my tan at a lovely white sand beach.

Naples, nestled among tropical wilderness in the southwest corner of Florida, has variety enough to suit any taste. No wonder it, along with nearby Marco Island and the Everglades, tout themselves as "Florida's Paradise Coast."

Begin with its reputation as a playground for the rich. It claims the sixth-highest per capita income and second-highest proportion of millionaires in the country. Some villas are so large I thought they might warrant their own ZIP code.

Even these examples of man-made splendor pale in comparison to some of Mother Nature's most magnificent creations. For starters, there is a choice of white sand beaches fronting Gulf of Mexico waters. Among the most inviting are those at Delnor-Wiggins State Park, several stretches of sand protected by gentle dunes; Seagate, a popular gathering place from which to watch dramatic sunsets; and Lowdermilk Park, whose wide beach is dotted by thatched-roof palapas.

As inviting as they are, the beaches provide only a hint of nature's showcase, which is reason enough to head for Naples. The northwestern tip of Everglades National Park is a short drive away, and that expansive never-never land of subtropical wilderness, the largest in the United States, can fill many an hour -- or day -- of seeing and doing. Its nine distinct habitats, which range from pinelands and hardwood hammock to cypress forests and coastal lowlands, are home to plant and animal species not found anywhere else.

My introduction came during a ride in an airboat, a flat-bottomed, propeller-driven craft that can skim across water only a few inches deep. It provided a twisting, turning journey that was a combination thrill ride and learning experience. As passengers scanned the surroundings for wildlife, our captain offered mini-lectures about the surroundings and creatures that live there.

The ride was much slower during a kayak paddle along narrow, winding openings and tunnels through mangroves in the colorfully named Rookery Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve. Our knowledgeable guide, Samantha, made occasional stops to describe the history of the bay, explain the interaction among its animal life, and point out bald eagles, ospreys, cormorants and other resident birds.

Seashells, for which this area of Florida is famous, were the objective of another sojourn by boat. Our destination was one of a number of isolated beaches that are strewn with shells in a variety of shapes and colors. It didn't take long to gather examples of what once housed mollusks, sea urchins, sand dollars and starfish. Collectors come from far away to take home a sample they might not be able to find elsewhere.

But visitors to Naples need not venture out of town to come face-to-face with the natural environment. A boardwalk at the Gordon River Greenway is one of several that provide easy access to settings far from human development. It meanders through six different plant communities as it parallels the narrow river. Signs identify trees, plants, and wildlife and caution strollers to be on the lookout for alligators.

Nature is tamed at the Naples Botanical Garden. Among seven environments in that magnificent setting are areas devoted to Asian, Brazilian, Caribbean and, not surprisingly, native Florida plants and flowers.

Even the Naples Zoo, which was founded as a garden decades before animals were introduced, would be worth visiting for its landscaping alone. It resembles a lush tropical paradise that echoes the rich foliage of its surroundings, where residents live in environments similar to those In the wild and a proliferation of rare orchids adorns the palm trees.

Different aspects of Naples' appeals are found throughout the town. Exhibits, photos and dioramas at the Collier County Museum tell the story of prehistoric people and animals - including mastodons, lions and camels - that once lived in the area, along with other chapters in its colorful past. Displays at the Depot Museum range from the role of Calusa and Seminole tribes to sport fishing to the impact that hurricanes have had on the region.

Two streets in the center of town are where much of today's action is focused. Fifth Avenue South is a luxury shopper's paradise, lined with high-end stores, art galleries, and both upscale and casual restaurants. Third Street South is, as signs boast, "The birthplace of Old Naples," where quaint 1900s cottages are tucked among contemporary mansions.

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WHEN YOU GO

For more information: paradisecoast.com

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Victor Block is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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