ArcaMax

By Fyllis Hockman

Most travelers who have heard of the British Virgin Islands are familiar with Tortola and maybe even Jost Van Dyke and Virgin Gorda. Almost no one, however, has ever heard of Anegada. Which is a shame because it has so much to recommend it.

For starters, it has multiple beautiful beaches with soft white sand and azure water more inviting than the sometimes more challenging undertow-laden surf of its more famous sister islands. As a bonus, its very drivable roads are flat and low as opposed to the windy, mountainous, death-defying roads on Tortola. Apparently that's because Anegada is the only inhabited British Virgin Island formed from coral and limestone rather than being of volcanic origin.

But perhaps its most famous feature is the annual lobster festival in late November. The varieties of dishes that use lobster in surprising ways abound. Thirteen restaurants around the island offer samples of luscious lobster creations for $10 each.

Alighting the ferry, we were overcome with the loudest music I've ever heard immediately alerting us to party time. Some caveats before you head out on your own lobster-trekking expedition: Unfortunately, getting from one restaurant to another is a challenge, so you have to either rent a car or scooter or take a taxi around the island. And be sure to pick up the Lobster Fest Guidebook. Your mouth will start watering before you set foot on the dock.

A well-known chef judges the two-day extravaganza each year. The criteria? Presentation, texture, originality, taste-flavor and overall impression. The subtleties were lost on me.

OK, stop No. 1. The Anegada Reef Hotel offered a lobster kebab with white wine reduction. I enjoyed eating it, but I couldn't imagine judging it. The texture was chewy, but I didn't know if that was a one or a 10. I do know that I was ready for sample No. 2.

Sample No. 2 is at the Lobster Trap, the ambience of which reflects its name. Fortunately, here the music by comparison more resembled a hymn, and I could breathe again. This round there was corn covered by Cajun lobster cream sauce, accompanied by a lobster, bacon and potato bite that tasted as good as it sounds. People from the other tables started moving rhythmically to the music -- and often to and with each other -- impressively using body parts I don't even know I have.

I'm already amazed at how many varieties I've had, and I'm only at sample No. 2. Sample No. 3 at the House of Beauty Beach Bar proffered Lobster Curry and Conch Fritters. Just as I was reaching the point where I could eat no more, here was yet another lobster concoction and another Painkiller -- the BVI's signature rum drink. I somehow managed to persevere on both levels.

By the time we got to Anegada Beach Club for sample No. 4 -- a lobster deviled egg alongside a smoky lobster kebab and a brochette topped with -- wild guess? -- more lobster, my eyes were glazing over and my stomach mildly protesting. After that I was looking forward to getting back to the ferry.

If you have a lot of patience, a love of lobster even in unrecognizable forms, a way to negotiate the island and an effective set of earplugs, you're in for a really good time. If you need a break from lobster overkill, there's an iguana sanctuary, a large conch shell mound, a small botanical island and, oh yes, those beaches with whiter sand and calmer waters than Tortola.

But then there's Tipsy's! Here the appeal went well beyond the lobster fritters. The walls were covered with entertaining paraphernalia -- "No working during drinking hours," "You bring the tequila, I'll bring the bad decisions," "Today's forecast -- 100% chance of beer." I felt revitalized!

There were still many more samples to go, but I never made it that far. Being an ardent fan of Maine lobster rolls, I was sorry to miss out on Anegada's version, but there was just so much of the briny, spiny little crustaceans I could handle. Maybe next year.

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WHEN YOU GO

For more information: bvitourism.com or 800-835-8530.

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Fyllis Hockman is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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