Shawarma, the inexpensive protein beloved by young traveling backpackers all over the world, is usually prepared by stacking thin marinated slices of lamb, chicken or beef in an inverted cone on a large, upright rotisserie.

The meat gets browned and crispy as cooks occasionally shave off the outside pieces to stuff into pitas or pile onto rice. A creamy garlic yogurt "white sauce" is the standard accompaniment, along with fresh vegetables like cucumbers and tomatoes.

Typically served in little restaurants or carts as an eat-on-the-go kind of meal, passersby can find their way to the back of the line using their noses as much as their GPS. As the fat drips off the slowly spinning rotisserie (the term shawarma is Arabic for turning), the spices in the marinade fill the air with the aroma of Arabia.

While those giant rotisseries aren't practical for the average home cook, the flavors of that juicy meat, with those addictive charred bits, aren't that difficult to create at home.

Chicken is the protein of choice for this version of shawarma. Cubes of boneless, skinless chicken thighs are tossed together in a bowl to marinate in a powerful mixture of olive oil, lemon juice, garlic (a lot of garlic) and spices.

A quick public service announcement about spices: Fresh, high-quality spices are always best. If you can buy them whole and toast them before grinding them yourself, that's even better.

The chicken pieces are then threaded tightly onto skewers and cooked on a hot grill. Keeping the meat tight on the skewer, which simulates how they are stacked onto poles on the traditional vertical spits, gives you a chance to let it form those important browned/charred pieces on the outside without overcooking the inside.

After sliding the chicken off the skewer, the sky's the limit when it comes to serving it. I like it stuffed inside a pita, along with a handful of crunchy vegetables and slathering of white sauce, but it's just as delightful served on a bed of rice pilaf or in a bowlful of crisp green lettuce, using that same white sauce as a dip or a dressing.

Grilled Chicken Shawarma Skewers

Serves 6.

Spiced, garlicky chicken skewers are grilled to perfection and can be served as a filling for a pita sandwich, alongside grilled vegetables or as a topping for a satisfying summertime salad. Be sure to leave enough time for the chicken to marinate at least 30 minutes. From Meredith Deeds.

For the white sauce:

• 1 c. plain Greek yogurt

• 1/3 c. mayonnaise

• 1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

• 1 clove garlic, minced

For the chicken:

• 1/3 c. extra-virgin olive oil

• 1/4 c. fresh lemon juice

• 6 cloves garlic, minced

• 1 tsp. ground cumin

• 1 tsp. ground coriander

• 1/2 tsp. turmeric

• 1/4 tsp. cinnamon

• 1/4 tsp. red pepper flakes

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2 1/2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-in. pieces

• Bamboo skewers, soaked in water for 1 hour

Directions

To prepare the white sauce: In a small bowl, stir together the yogurt, mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 1 clove minced garlic. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

To prepare the chicken: In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, 1/4 cup lemon juice, 6 cloves minced garlic, cumin, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, red pepper flakes, 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Add chicken and stir to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes or up to 1 hour.

Heat a charcoal grill or set a gas grill to high heat. Oil grates. Tightly thread chicken onto the soaked skewers.

Grill chicken over direct heat. Turn the chicken skewers every minute or so, until cooked through, browned and beginning to char in spots, about 8 to 10 minutes total, turning the skewers frequently,

Serve the chicken and white sauce as desired.

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Meredith Deeds is a cookbook author and food writer from Edina. Reach her at meredithdeeds@gmail.com. Follow her on Instagram ­at @meredithdeeds.

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