My grandmother had two cherry trees in her backyard. Early summer evenings found my sisters and me sorting, stemming and pitting cherries to turn into jam, ice cream toppings and all manner of baked goods. Messy work, cherry pitting. We used our small hands and paper clips.

Decades later, I happily employ a cherry pitter to make quick work of the farmers market cherries now in season. Made by OXO Good Grips, this is one kitchen gadget worth the drawer space. The action reminds me of using a stapler, except this pitter shoots the pit out of the cherry’s interior. There are other styles and brands of cherry pitters, some with large hoppers that hold a lot of cherries at once, but for most home cooking endeavors, the one-at-a-time pitters work well.

Lacking a cherry pitter? Use a large paper clip and open it up at the bend. Use the smaller curved end to insert it into the pit area, twist and pull out the pit. Another option is to use a chopstick to push the pit through the cherry.

When pitting cherries, work in the sink or a deep bowl to catch the inevitable spray of cherry juice. And be sure not to wear white for this job.

The recipes that follow can be made with dark red and sweet Bing cherries, as well as the crunchy, golden yellow with a splash of red Rainier cherries. For a few short weeks every summer, bright and tangy sour cherries, such as Montmorency, grace local farmers markets. They are delicious in all the following recipes.

The roasted cherry recipe can be served in several ways: Spoon it warm alongside grilled or roasted pork chops, chicken or duck breast. Or, spoon it over bitter, multi-colored lettuces for a surprising summer salad. The cherries and their pan juices can be stirred into warm cooked brown rice or quinoa for a grain salad.

The drop biscuits are best served warm with soft butter. For dessert, split them horizontally in half, top with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a generous spoonful of cherry sauce..

Roasted Cherries with Balsamic and Shallots

Makes about 3 cups

1 1/2 pounds Bing cherries, about 4 cups, stemmed, pitted

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