ArcaMax

The long-standing popularity of this dessert dates to the 1860s, when the advent of egg beaters with rotating parts made whipping the egg whites for the batter easier. For bold citrus flavor, we steeped a generous 2 tablespoons of zest in the milk and cream for the batter to extract both its water- and fat-soluble compounds. Baking the pudding cakes in a bath filled with cold water, versus the hot water typically added to the pan, ensured that the bottom pudding layer, which sets faster than the top, didn't curdle while the cake baked through. The lemony, airy, cozy results are sublime.

Small-Batch Lemon Pudding Cakes

Serves 3

1/2 cup milk

1/4 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons grated lemon zest plus 1/4 cup juice (2 lemons)

1/2 cup (3 1/2 ounces) granulated sugar, divided

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

1 large egg, separated, plus 1 large white

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Powdered sugar (optional)

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Bring milk and cream to simmer in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Remove saucepan from heat, whisk in lemon zest, cover saucepan, and let stand for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, fold a dish towel in half and place in the bottom of a 13-by 9-inch baking pan. Place three 6-ounce ramekins on top of the towel and set aside the pan.

2. Whisk 6 tablespoons sugar, flour, the baking powder and salt in a medium bowl until combined. Strain milk mixture through fine-mesh strainer into bowl with sugar mixture, pressing on lemon zest to extract liquid; discard lemon zest. Add egg yolk, vanilla and lemon juice; whisk until combined. (Batter will have the consistency of milk.)

3. Using a hand mixer, whip egg whites on medium-low speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Increase speed to medium-high and whip whites to soft, billowy mounds, about 1 minute. Gradually add remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and whip until glossy, soft peaks form, about 1 minute.

4. Whisk one-quarter of whites into batter to lighten. Gently whisk in remaining whites until no clumps or streaks remain. Ladle batter into ramekins (ramekins should be nearly full). Pour enough cold water into the pan to come one-third of the way up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until cake is set and pale golden brown and pudding layer registers 172 to 175 degrees at the center, 35 to 40 minutes.

5. Remove pan from oven and let ramekins stand in water bath for 10 minutes. Transfer ramekins to a wire rack and let cool completely. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, if using, and serve.

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