Since then, hundreds of studies have explored the link between ultra-processed foods and health outcomes; countries like Brazil and Israel specifically call out ultra-processed foods in government dietary guidelines.

But in those studies there is not a standard definition for ultra-processed food. Research that uses the same Nova scale often places different foods in different categories.

Industry groups like the National Cattlemen's Beef Association and the International Dairy Foods Association are seizing on the lack of a concrete definition to oppose regulation and potential "misclassification" of nutritionally wholesome foods.

In a joint letter with fellow cereal makers Post and Kellogg, General Mills called it "oversimplified criteria" that ignores processed foods' "safety, convenience, accessibility and affordability."

"Defining the overall healthfulness of a food based on the level of processing discounts the benefits of a food's nutrient density," the letter said.

At a nutrition conference this month, Hess said, "We kind of know it when we see it, but what is it exactly if we're not using a criteria to define it in?"

"While I'm not personally convinced it's a useful construct, I think if we get useful research ... because we're investigating ultra-processed foods, that's a win for public health," she said. "Is there something to ultra-processed foods? I think we'll know, hopefully soon enough."

For now, a federal advisory committee is still pondering the question: "What is the relationship between consumption of dietary patterns with varying amounts of ultra-processed foods and growth, body composition and risk of obesity?"

It will take until the end of the year to finalize dietary guidelines for 2025-2030, which are used by public health officials, nutritionists and federal programs that provide food assistance and funding for school meals.

Slavin doesn't expect the committee to adopt any recommendations around ultra-processed foods.

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