None of this plays out as comedy, even if that’s how the network has categorized the show for awards purposes. There is less humor this season than ever. Most of the comic relief is courtesy of Frick-and-Frack handyman brothers Neil and Ted Fak (played by Matty Matheson and Ricky Staffieri) and a little of their schtick goes a long way. The show struggles with that balance.

If Season 3 doesn’t reach the heights of earlier seasons, the best of it still works remarkably well, especially when it slows down and takes a breath. There’s an episode devoted to Richie’s awkward but somehow graceful acceptance of his post-divorce personal life. It’s unclear if he’s getting professional help but I’d wager yes, judging by the therapy-speak that sometimes peppers his speech: “Chef Carmen uses power phrases because he’s a baby replicant who’s not self-actualized.” Another terrific episode (which Edebiri directs) is the story of how Tina (Liza Colón-Zayas) came to work at the Original Beef of Chicagoland and it’s a wonderful contrast to the present. When she first walks in, there is life in the place; it is conspicuous what has been lost in the years since. There’s nothing wrong with Carmy pushing the business in a different direction, but this flashback underscores the grief everyone now carries with them, and how deeply Carmy has done a number on them in the months since. These episodes allow you to live with the characters in their quieter moments, away from the mishegoss Carmy is perpetrating in the kitchen.

There is a brief mention of grumbling among old-timers that the neighborhood staple has forsaken its roots. I wish the show had more interest in exploring that. And there remains an unanswered question I first brought up last season: As a pair, Carmy and Sydney found real fulfillment and dignity in making affordable food better at the grimy little sandwich spot. So what’s behind this drive to achieve something notable in the fine dining space? I think for Sydney, it’s a way back in after she was burned by her earlier ambitions.

For Carmy, the answers are less clear. He left home only to lose himself in the punishing world of elite kitchens. He found a small piece of himself again amid the beef juice splattered confines of the family business. Now he’s discarded that once again in favor of a dream that may not even be satisfying if he attains it. He said as much in Season 1 when describing how it felt to win his first Michelin stars. Maybe some of this is rooted in getting the right kind of accolades needed to make the restaurant viable. But not all.

It’s a battle for Carmy’s soul as he tries to outrun his feelings. What does he want really? Where does Sydney — or anyone else — fit in with that? As the season finale promises, “to be continued.”

———

'THE BEAR' SEASON 3

3 stars (out of 4)

Rating: TV-MA

How to watch: Hulu

———

©2024 Chicago Tribune. Visit chicagotribune.com. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.