Years ago, I wrote a stir-fry book and learned lots of new recipes and flavors. One of the recipes I often refer back to is stir-fried noodles. It's easy to see why noodles have become so popular in ramen shops across the country. They are a true comfort food. Soft or crispy, noodles are just one of those foods that make us happy.

For this one-dish noodle main course, I like to use the Japanese version of Chinese wheat noodles, chuka soba noodles, which are precooked and dried. They are often used to make ramen, but here they are stir-fried till crisp and then combined with vegetables and meat or poultry, if desired. If these noodles are unavailable, you can use Chinese egg noodles. By crisping the noodles first, you'll create varied textures in this dish.

If you prefer a vegetarian dish, omit the meat or chicken. You could add some pre-cooked tofu if you like. I make this dish when I have extra grilled chicken, beef or lamb in my fridge. It becomes a satisfying main course that tastes nothing like leftovers. This is a last-minute meal that can't be made ahead, so plan accordingly. I always have all my ingredients measured out to make the streamline the process. To drink? A cold Asian beer or a chilled Chardonnay. Enjoy!

Pan-fried Noodles with Vegetables

Serves 4.

1/2 cup dried shiitake mushrooms

One 6-ounce package chuka soba noodles

Sauce:

2 tablespoons cornstarch

3 tablespoons soy sauce

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