Carnival: Europe's wild rites of spring
To see Europe at its craziest, join the wild party that kicks off the reverent Easter season. Carnival is a boisterous time before the traditional period of abstinence and piety of Lent. Its finale -- what we call Mardi Gras -- is held this year on Feb. 9. Here are a few of the most colorful events.
Spread Your Wings, but Wear a Mask in Venice
Venice has hosted what locals call "Carnevale" since at least the 13th century, when Europe's wealthiest traveled there to do things that were forbidden at home. Everyone wore masks -- thus remaining anonymous -- and the canal-laced city is now arguably the world's mask-making capital.
Today, Venice's Carnevale draws thousands from around the world. St. Mark's Square is populated with elaborately bedecked lords and ladies, cavorting and gavotting. These people don't merely don a costume -- they inhabit a role, gesturing slowly with pantomime-like motions, posing under the arches of the lacy Doge's Palace, beside a weathered lion statue, or while cruising in a decorated gondola.
As dusk falls, revelers crowd the pubs, enjoying "cicchetti" (appetizers) and cheap wine. They might stumble on a party erupting in a piazza or in someone's home that's open to almost anyone in costume. Meanwhile, fancy palazzos along the Grand Canal or on St. Mark's Square host more formal parties. Some are open to strangers (for a fee), some are by invitation only, and some are very expensive, with thousand-dollar-a-plate spreads.
Many Venetians have made it a tradition to gather with friends every Carnevale. It's a time to take a break and let some fun and fantasy take over. And as it was centuries ago, what happens in Venice ... stays in Venice.
Let Loose in Switzerland
The city of Luzern (a.k.a. "Lucerne" in English) hosts the biggest Carnival in Switzerland. Here, masks are huge heads made of papier-mache -- some whimsical, but many with a darker edge, featuring horned devils and Gothic caricatures. There's often a satirical political bite to the masks and floats not normally seen in Swiss society.
Festivities begin a week before Ash Wednesday, culminating on Fat Tuesday before Lent with the main parade. A driving beat wakes up the city like a mobile alarm clock. At first, things are pretty orderly. Colorful floats, costumed marchers, and brass bands follow the parade route, with spectators lined up behind barriers.
Eventually, groups split off, wandering the city, as the party goes on and on. People clog the streets. Even five-star hotels open their doors and let the partying public celebrate inside.
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(c)2016 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
